The Verdict: Are Tusk Clutch Kits Any Good?
When sourcing aftermarket drivetrain components for your ATV, UTV, or motocross bike, you will inevitably encounter Tusk. As the proprietary house brand of Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, Tusk clutch kits are engineered to provide a budget-friendly alternative to premium aftermarket brands like Hinson or EBC. But are Tusk clutch kits any good for serious riding? The short answer is yes, provided you understand their material composition and install them with exact precision.
Tusk standard kits typically utilize an aramid (Kevlar) or high-density paper-based composite friction material paired with OEM-equivalent steel plates. For trail riding, amateur hare scrambles, and stock-to-mildly modified utility vehicles, Tusk offers 90% of the performance of OEM at roughly 60% of the cost. A standard Tusk Complete Clutch Kit usually retails between $65 and $115, compared to $140–$220 for OEM and $250+ for top-tier racing kits. However, their longevity is entirely dependent on your installation protocol. A poorly soaked or improperly torqued Tusk kit will glaze and slip within three hours of operation, whereas a meticulously installed kit will easily survive 150+ hours of aggressive trail use.
Market Comparison: Tusk vs. OEM vs. Premium Aftermarket
| Brand / Tier | Friction Material | Avg. Price Range | Best Application | Heat Tolerance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tusk Standard | Aramid / Paper Composite | $65 - $90 | Trail Riding, Utility, Amateur | Medium |
| Tusk Heavy Duty | Carbon-Kevlar Blend | $95 - $120 | Aggressive Trail, Light Mud | High |
| OEM (Honda/Yamaha) | Cork / Paper Composite | $140 - $220 | Stock Replacement, Reliability | Medium-High |
| Hinson / EBC HD | Sintered Bronze / Carbon | $250 - $350+ | AMA Pro Racing, 1000cc UTVs | Extreme |
Pre-Installation: The 24-Hour Soaking Mandate
The most common reason riders report that their new Tusk clutch is "slipping right out of the box" is a failure to properly pre-soak the friction plates. Wet clutch systems rely on oil to cool the friction surfaces and manage the engagement bite. Tusk's aramid-reinforced friction materials are highly porous; they require deep capillary saturation before they ever see the heat of engine operation.
Expert Tip: Do not rely on the "quick 30-minute dip" method. Submerge the Tusk friction plates in a sealed container filled with the exact JASO MA or JASO MA2 certified oil you plan to run in the engine (e.g., Motul 7100 or Amsoil MCF). Allow them to soak for a minimum of 12 hours, preferably 24 hours. Motul's technical documentation emphasizes that friction modifiers found in standard automotive API SN oils will instantly contaminate powersport clutch plates, causing irreversible slippage. Always use dedicated powersport wet-clutch oil.
Steel Plate Inspection and Warpage Tolerances
If you are reusing your OEM steel drive plates to save money, you must verify their dimensional integrity. Tusk friction plates will quickly wear out if paired with warped steels. Place each steel plate on a perfectly flat surface (a piece of tempered glass or a machinist's granite block). Slide a feeler gauge under the edge of the plate.
- Maximum Warpage Limit: 0.004 inches (0.10mm). If the feeler gauge slides underneath, the steel plate must be replaced.
- Minimum Thickness Limit: Typically 0.040 inches (1.02mm) for most 450cc motocross and 700cc ATV applications. Check your specific OEM service manual, as limits vary by spline diameter.
Assembly Best Practices and Spring Dynamics
When stacking the clutch pack, maintain the OEM staggered pattern. Most modern powersport wet clutches utilize a specific friction plate with a slightly different inner diameter or a specialized tang design (often marked with a paint dot or a unique tooth profile) that must be installed last, sitting at the top of the basket. Installing this plate in the middle of the pack will cause the clutch basket to notch and the engagement to feel grabby.
Upgrading to Tusk Heavy Duty Springs
If you have increased your engine's horsepower through big bore kits, ECU tuning, or larger tires on your UTV, the stock clutch springs will fatigue rapidly. Tusk Heavy Duty clutch springs are typically wound from thicker gauge chrome-silicone wire, increasing clamping force by 15% to 22%. While this provides a firmer lever pull, it prevents clutch slip under heavy load. Always measure your new springs with a caliper before installation to ensure none were damaged or deformed during shipping.
Critical Fastener Torque Specifications
Proper torque application is where amateur installations fail. The clutch center nut secures the inner hub to the transmission's main shaft. If this nut backs off, it will destroy the splines on both the hub and the shaft, resulting in a catastrophic transmission rebuild.
- Clutch Center Nut (M16/M18 Thread): Torque to 54–65 ft-lbs (73–88 Nm), depending on the specific model. Always use a dedicated clutch holding tool to prevent transferring torsional stress to the transmission gears. Apply a medium-strength threadlocker (Blue Loctite 243) to the threads. If your OEM setup uses a peened washer, use a punch to secure the nut after torquing.
- Clutch Cover Bolts (8mm Thread): Torque to 84 in-lbs (7 ft-lbs / 10 Nm). These bolts thread directly into the aluminum engine cases. Over-torquing will strip the magnesium or aluminum threads, requiring a Time-Sert repair. Always use a crisscross pattern to ensure even gasket compression.
- Clutch Cable Free-Play: After reassembly, adjust the lever free-play to 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3-6mm) at the lever perch. Too tight, and the clutch will slip; too loose, and you will fail to achieve full disengagement, leading to gear clunk and bent shift forks.
For a visual reference on proper center nut securing techniques and threadlocker application, Dirt Rider's comprehensive clutch replacement guide offers excellent baseline procedures that apply across most Japanese and Austrian powersport platforms.
The Break-In Procedure: Heat Cycling
Once installed, do not immediately subject your new Tusk clutch to wide-open-throttle (WOT) hole shots or deep mud bogging. The aramid and resin binders in the friction material require a heat-cycling break-in period to mate perfectly with the steel plates and shed initial manufacturing glazes.
Start the machine and let it idle until it reaches normal operating temperature. Ride the vehicle under light-to-medium load for the first 30 minutes, focusing on smooth, progressive clutch releases rather than aggressive slipping. Allow the engine to cool completely, and repeat this process for two to three heat cycles. This controlled thermal expansion and contraction will seat the friction material deeply into the microscopic pores of the steel plates, ensuring maximum bite and extending the lifespan of your Tusk clutch kit well into the next season of riding.
